Structure and Pattern
Pitti Filati 77: Florence, Italy
july 2015
autumn/winter 2016/17
Report: Noel Chapman
Introduction
As ever all the Pitti’ fairs are united this season by an overarching idea:
‘THAT’S PITTICOLOR! is the title-theme for the summer fairs and it will talk about color and colors: the colors we are steeped in, the colors that surround us, the colors that we wear, that are inside us and before our eyes. The language of color is also one of fashion’s basic “codes” and it will take us into a full immersion course on new styles and lifestyles. We will talk about and design this summer’s Pitti fairs in color and look at the world in Pitticolor. Curated by Oliviero Baldini.
在本次展會上 談論最多的是顏色之外 還是顏色 .所謂的顏色就是 每天圍繞著我們 我們穿在身上和我们所看到的顏色 . 眾多流行”代號”裡 顏色亦是一項話語焦點 同時顏色 讓我沉浸於新風格和新的生活方式的領域裡在本次展會裡 我们所討論和設計上皆圍繞著顏色並依pitti顏色來端詳這個世界! 策展人: Oliviero Baldini
Pitti Immagine Filati, the key international event featuring yarns for the knitting industry. - Both a research lab and an authoritative observatory that looks onto the lifestyle trends of the future, Pitti Filati presents world-scale excellence in yarns to its audience of international buyers and designers from the biggest names in fashion who come to Florence looking for creative inspiration. This, the 77th edition, will feature world previews of yarns for the 2016/17 fall winter season, in a unique atmosphere that makes doing business a pleasure, offering a new, original entertaining take on the many ways that fashion, art, sport and design come together.
THE NUMBERS OF PITTI FILATI 77:
- 136 brands at this edition, 29 of which are from abroad (Great Britain, Japan, Turkey, Romania, Peru, France, Germany, China, and New Zealand).
- 33 exhibitors in the Fashion at Work area (14 of which are from abroad: Great Britain, Turkey, Germany, France, and China)
- 20 exhibitors in the KnitClub area
Exhibition area: 20,000 square meters
5,200 buyers / visitors, attended the June 2014 edition, of these, 2,800 (53.86% of the total) were from abroad.’
Overview總覽概述
Skills, Technology, Craft and TECH-CRAFT, are the buzzwords of the season for Pitti Filati; ideas that are creatively embraced and explored in the Spazio Ricerca – the trend area of the show:
技術 機器 手工藝 機器工藝 是本次展會最熱们的詞彙. 在SpazioRicerca裡擁抱並探索這些極具創意之概念
‘Evolution and change are the intrinsic features of the Spazio Ricerca, the fulcrum of all creative expression at the fair. The Spazio Ricerca is the experimental observatory where trends are analyzed and launched, and at Pitti Filati 77, the season’s title-theme MAKE IT will celebrate the concept of skills and crafts. It presents a journey through the history of mankind, looking at objects that have survived through the ages. Not only important design objects, but ordinary, commonplace, everyday things in which craftsmanship becomes one with need and knowing how to make do. This is not a trip down memory lane: the “itinerary” starts from the basics, from the roots, to reach the contemporary mode of producing by traveling through atmospheres related to specific crafts that will influence the way we conceive of – and understand – products for the 2106/17 fall-winter season. “Don’t throw it away, repair it”, “Acquire a history, make an item unique” are just an example of the season’s leitmotifs. Presented under the artistic direction of fashion designer Angelo Figus and knitwear expert Nicola Miller; setting by Alessandro Moradei.’
演化與變格是在Spazio Ricerca展區裡 核心主題 也是整個創意形像表達的主軸.本展區的主題“MAKE IT”:是對傳統手工藝和技巧的禮讚. 展現出整個人類歷史的旅程和凝視著先人所創造出來的產品不因歲月久遠而消失. 不僅是的物件本身的設計重要性 連同看似平凡 普通 唾手可得的東西卻因傳統手工藝的加持變成必需品 因精進工藝 讓質感更精緻
這不光是一條歷史回憶大道: :行程從基本的 草根的古老手工藝開始到當代生產模式 進而影響著2016/17 秋冬產品的發想和了解貫通產品結構方式.
“不要丟棄 把它修好:”以史為鑑,使物件更獨特” 是本季的主調
Trends趨式
The Spazio Ricerca trend area was the most concise and inspiring it has been for several seasons - celebrating and reflecting many of the key areas of revived and re-appreciated skills and craft-rooted occupations in contemporary society: From environmental and sustainability issues, to our concerns for traceability through artisan grown and processed foods.
Spazio Ricerca趨勢區 是過去幾季中最精準和最具啟發性的展區
在當代社會裡讓古老工藝的再生和再精進 也是對古老已生根的職業和技藝的禮讚和回響.從環境永續發展的議題 到我們所關切的加工食品的可追朔性
‘The 2017-2017 fall-winter season will be strongly influenced by the concept of skills and crafts. Objects that have survived through centuries are like a book of human history. Not only the important design objects, or highlights from the history of costume, but ordinary commonplace, everyday things in which craftsmanship becomes one with necessity and knowing how to make do.
傳統工藝和技藝的概念 深深地影響著2016/17秋冬趨勢
產品歷經數個世紀而不衰 如同一本人類歷史.不管產品設計或者是聚焦於過往華麗服裝 還是平凡不起眼的日需品 傳統工藝使的他們等同重要成為人们日常所須!!
Once we repaired everything and didn’t throw anything away. Each piece of clothing, each item had and acquired a history and a value that increased. Everything became richer and was handed down from generation to generation, extraordinary examples of craftsmanship that have survived to the present, with an added human touch and added value. All this was possible thanks to skills that are no lnger common and crafts that have been lost or forgotten or have become nearly extinct. The cobbler, the umbrella-maker, the water-seller and the calligrapher. And even though we no longer need these crafts, they are still fascinating and we see them as fitting into the definition of luxury: custom water, an umbrella made to order.
一旦我们可以修補任何物品 不要任意丟棄 . 並且從歷史經驗裡借鏡老工藝 那怕是一件衣服或物品 使其價值因而提升.代代相傳至今的古老工藝讓一切事物變的更豐富 這一切要歸功於幾乎要被遺忘或失傳的古老工藝 如修鞋匠 傘’匠甚至是賣水人 畫師 這些行業以現代人眼光 已是舉無輕重 但到現在依然發光發熱並和奢侈品畫上等號 如客製化的瓶裝水 雨傘
The distinction between dosposable, conservable and inheritable makes the difference between luxurious and non-luxurious, between value and non-value, the difference is guaranteed by the skills associated with the object itself. But be careful: this is not a question of nostalgia. The journey starts from history to reach the contemporary mode of producing traveling through atmospheres related to specific crafts that will influence the way of conceiving – and understanding – next winter’s products. Nothing will be thrown away, everything will be repaired. Repaired and enhanced. Acquire a history, make an item unique. Hence the crafts and the skills:
奢侈品和非奢侈品區別在於用完即丟 和可保存並且可傳承的 在於價值連城和一文不值’, 其間差異就是工藝品質保證物件本身的價值.
請注意: 這不是懷舊的議題 而是回首過往工藝到現代製造工藝的分圍裡 影響著 下一季秋冬產品的發想和構思.
The refreshingly simply-formatted presentation consisted of swatches, a single outfit and an inspirational video montage for each of the 10 interlinked and overlapping themes that when contemplated evoke and inspire the following associations:
透過布片,服裝 和具有啟發性的錄像帶 簡單地展現另人耳目一新的風格 畫分出以下10大互為關聯和互為重疊主題
Theme 1 – tic tac – horology, timekeeping, chronometer, precision, detailed, calculated, calibrated, digital, numeric, accurate, regimented.
以計時器為發想
Theme 2 – barber – hairy, tufted, pile, fringed, shaved, bald, cut, wild, natural, hirsute, bristly, stubble, shorn, groomed, shaped, tamed, controlled, parted, plaited, twisted, curly, straight, looped, smart, manicured, confident, trimmed.
以理髮紋路為發想
Theme 3 – mattress – padded, quilted, pocketed, stuffed, filled, encased, structered, layered, light, lofty, stretched, upholstered,, dimpled, rippled, pleated, concealed, revealed, double-sided, insulated, supported, tensioned, impressed, embossed, stitched, tufted, buttoned, held, released.
以家具為發想 如紗發 席夢思床墊為發想
Theme 4 – binding – bibliology, books, bookcovers, intricate, miniscule, printed, bound, header, folded, laced, taped, marbled, end-papers, titled, labeled, interleaved, impressed, inked, laminated, embossed, latticed, knotted, double-faced.
以書本為發想
Theme 5 – meat – butchery, bloody, fibrous, veined, marbled, soft, yielding, wet, shiny, matt, tough, muscular, robust, fragile, impermanent.
以新鮮肉類為發想
Theme 5 – mechanic – Engineered, tough, metallic, complex, skilled, structured, geometric, mathematical, ribbed, oily, greasy, pristine, shiny, corroded, organized, skilled, patinated, reinforced.
以機械結構為發想
Theme 7 – charbon (charcoal) – burnt, charred, singed, blackened, scorched, destroyed, torn, frayed, remains, crumbly, dry, metamorphosis, transformed, distorted, disguised.
以自然界為發想 如 燒焦的木頭產生焦炭和裂痕
Theme 8 – cracks – joined, linked, broken, disjointed, pieced, separated, lace, laced, combined, fragmented, re-aligned, tracery, restored, mended, repaired, fixed, seams, joins, pieces, missing, spaces, gap, incomplete, mismatched,
以日常物品因時間的關係 產生人為或自然的破裂
Theme 9 – rug – tapestry, craft, handwoven, pile, fringed, textured, rich, folky, lofty, heavy, thick, crafted, hand-dyed, crimped, woven, undone, unraveled, double-sided, ribbed, ridged, rippled, patched, finished/finishing, washed, edges, selvedge, ends, traditional, complex, knotted, richly-pattered, multi-patterned.
以地毯為發想
Theme 10 – mending – Japanese Boro, repaired, patched, layered, indigo, utility, jeans, workwear, necessity, decoration, regenerated, up-cycled, washed, worn, old, valued, loved, heirloom, frayed, broken, mended, surface, multi-textural, sashiko, stitched, darned, patchwork, composite, mismatched.
以古老手工藝為發想
Woolmark showed several stylish trend themes that echoed and expanded upon many of the themes in the Spazio Ricerca;
WOOLMARK的主題在Spazio Ricerca展區裡亦引起討論話題
Androgyne – Cool primarily minimal looks exploring traditional menswear looks for men and women.
陽剛氣習---酷而極簡的風格去探索檢視傳統男女毛衣的設計
Into The Wild – A modern rustic and country theme.
狂野不羈--- 以當代質樸鄉村風為主題
Normdecor – Everyday couture inspired luxury looks.
簡單裝飾--- 以高級定製服為發想 展現奢華風格
Compliments – a folk inspired, pure and simple modern craft theme.
致意--- 以普羅大眾為發想 用當代工藝展現了單純又質樸的風格
New Makers – Clean and radical cutting and construction for new modern couture looks.
新工藝—利落又誇張的剪裁和結構 展現出新一代高級訂製服的外觀
Metropolitan Chalet – a white-based monotone theme exploring texture and surfaces.
都會風格的農舍— 以白色為基調 進而探所紗線外觀和結構
Posh – Refined modern grooming based on traditional and enduring style.
華麗—以傳統又雋永的造型為發想 淬練出當代裝辦風格
Colour 顏色
Four main colour groups were presented; many of the spinners also showed a group of pure bright flamboyant colours, that I will list as the fifth group (all my titles):
1. Winter Pastels – A group of soft foggy neutrals and pale yellowed tones, enriched with deeper golden autumnal yellow shades.
粉彩色系 自然界的霧色調和淡黃色 讓秋天金黃色調更為飽滿豐富
2. Not Black – Wintery dark shades, including Espresso, Darkest Ivy, Ink and Woody Olive, Deep Plum, Stormy Grey, Grey-Blue, and sharpened by a light Minty Green.
不是黑色--- 冬季深色調 如濃縮咖啡色
3. Subtle Mid-tones – Sand, Fawn, Stone, Mid Grey shades, a soft Dusty Pink, and Old Fashioned Lavender, Faded Teal, and soft Blue-Grey.
細緻的中色調 –傳統薰衣草顏色..
4. Rich Not Bright – Aubergine, Maroon, a soft Pimento Red, Carmine, deep Marmalade Orange, Vicuna Tan, a warm Honey Beige, and Cameo Pink.
濃郁又深沉的色調 –茄子 栗子..
5. Bright – The Cobalt and Workwear Blues of recent seasons continue here, with; Violet, confident Sunshine Yellow, optimistic Bright Orange, Lipstick Red and several shades of Hot Pink. This group for younger or sporty looks, for highlights and pops, or for bold accent pieces in an outfit.
明亮色系 工人裝的豔藍色 金黃色…