Introduction & Overview

Times are difficult; Brexit looms, casting its long shadow of uncertainty across Britain, Europe and beyond. The United States falls out with its trading partners, business at all levels is threatened and tentative, the country is far from united. There are more peoples at war with each other than at any time in world history. Right wing politics and so-called populism spread internationally, threatening and unbalancing the status quo, and with it our expectations. Long predicted global warming is generally accepted as a living reality as nations north, south, east and west now regularly experience previously unprecedented weather extremes. The exhaustion and abuse of natural resources, concerns about consumption and waste have become daily topics of discussion, Fashion and Fast Fashion in particular are among the biggest culprits – it is interesting to ponder; that in Britain alone, the average person throws away 16kg of clothes every year, and that the average life of many High Street clothes is just 5 weeks buy to bin - but if nowhere else this is an area where the industry is finally shaping up.

In the last Pitti Filati report (July 2018 for A/W 2019) I quoted Marina Spadafora, coordinator for Italy of Fashion Revolution, the international movement of ethical, sustainable fashion “ Our tradition will save us from the price war. If we want to hold onto our supremacy in the world of fashion, we must continue to progress in innovation, quality and sustainability. ” And so, setting a crusading tone going forward, with positive attitudes, and concerns for achieving the highest standards of ethics, responsibility, and sustainability consciousness across Italian fashion industry.

And from where we left off last season, was – for these are not specifically fashion issues but global issues, in the true spirit of fashion as a leader and barometer of society – exactly from where we picked up from for Pitti Filati 84, Spring Summer 2020. Over 110 mills, of which 20 were overseas, exhibited, presenting new collections that overwhelmingly reiterated these environmental and social messages and carried through with sound, creative collections that ticked many boxes.

‘A fair that welcomes visitors in an unmistakable yet always new and stimulating atmosphere. Both a concept lab and a platform for global lifestyle trends, Pitti Filati is putting all of its money, as it were, on research, continuing to reinforce the synergies among the various areas . . . . . . Pitti Filati presents world-class excellence in yarns to its extraordinary audience of international buyers and designers from the biggest fashion brands who come to Florence looking for creative inspiration.’

The show appeared somewhat quieter than expected, even for summer, but many people; visitors and spinners commented on the prevailing mood of optimism and positivity, with much enthusiasm for the new and exciting yarn collections presented.

Trends


The main trend area was set in THE NEW SPAZIO RICERCA which boldly promised:

IS ALL ABOUT SPORT, THE FAR EAST AND SUB-CULTURESThe Spazio Ricerca in the Salone M is the fair’s creative lab and experimental observatory where the trends for future seasons are launched. Summer 2020 is all about sport, the Far East and sub-cultures: the much-anticipated Olympic Games in Japan will offer a strong boost to visual culture. National sports and “new” sports – originating from the street and youth sub-cultures - such as surfing and skateboarding which will be included among the official Olympic sports for the first time. In the background we have Japan and its ancient culture suspended between tradition and innovation, between cultural mixtures and overlapping styles. A unique exhibition and experimental project produced under the artistic direction of the fashion designer Angelo Figus and knitwear expert Nicola Miller, with a layout by Alessandro Moradei. And in addition the two projects devised exclusively for Pitti Filati creatively linked to the themes of the Spazio Ricerca: Techno-Luxury and CustomEASY.

But the general opinion throughout the show, was that the Spazio Ricerca display fell well below expections, the ancient cultures of Japan and Asia only briefly and superficially making an appearance as manga and woodblock prints appropriated as print designs. The displays were arranged in revived versions of the booths from last summers’ A/W 2019 presentation. Swatches were stretched and distorted so as to obscure all the qualities of yarn behavior, and bore little pattern or structural connection to any of the sub-themes to which they were intended to relate, with little difference from one sub-theme to the next. At a time when inclusion and equality are at the top of all agendas women appeared in none of the sporting imagery, only as an apparent afterthought in one single display with much pink and glitter, about Vogueing, having something one was to presume, to do with subculture.

Handicapped and differently-abled athletes were absent completely. The lack of female presence in the sports presented provoked comments about misogyny from many visitors. Lacking depth of investigation, completely devoid of any fashion content and having little to do with the main messages and trends coming strongly from the mills visitors were left disappointed if not completely confused and even angry. The sport and subculture ‘themes’; Handball, Skatebored (deliberately misspelt), Citysurfer, Fullcontact, Uplifting, and Tacky Gym (possibly tongue-in- cheek):

Handball



Ball games are interpreted in a completely new way, through handball. All you need is a wall and some space. From the street to a new market, different from soccer and basketball, yet completely and sometimes similar.

Skatebored



Skateboarding is the subculture symbol par excellence, and it will be on the podium at the next Olympic Games. Once again, the street is the hybrid and inclusive backdrop for fashions that are as free and rebellious as the skaters.

Citysurfer



It’s an unusual view of surfing that inspires this theme: surfing in the city. If water is too far away, the city inspires fun alternatives to sea or ocean. Munich offers the most interesting example. The Eisbach River attracts surfers from all over the world.

Fullcontact



The street has always been the most democratic place for testing your and your opponents’ strength. Physical contact sports born on the street, from boxing to wrestling, inspire a theme that feeds on suggestions from underprivileged milieus and then offer rich and interesting results in terms of materials

Uplifting



This is the theme of raising and elevating the self beyond one’s own limits – a new street discipline that uplifts body and spirit. The Olympic disciplines are Calisthenics, Cross Fit and the Paleo Workout. The face of sport has never been so human and ordinary.

Tacky Gym



Of all the Olympic disciplines there is one in particular that captures our eye and attention for its technical virtuosity. Artictic Gymnastics are the inspiration for a theme of elegance and exaggerated showiness, that is almost fake and borderline kitsch.

The disappointments of the actual SPAZIO RICERCA trend area aside, the overall mood was buoyant and enthusiastic, the buzz at the show was focused on the current biggest socio-fashion drivers: environmental concerns and social issues, with many, many spinners offering ecological, low-impact and sustainable solutions. Recycled fibres, organic fibres, lower water usage, more environment friendly bleaches and detergents used in processing, and low-impact production were just some of the ideas and answers proffered.

Underpinning this turn-around for the industry, whilst maintaining the Italian reputation for quality and luxury innovation was the overall show theme;
ECO DELUXE: when beautiful is also good.

Investment turns the spotlight on a niche of eco-friendly fine fibers, the result of cutting-edge research: yarns that are based on a sense of excellence, no-waste and simplification. Using salvaging and regenerating actions, as well as re-engineering. Yarns created from the creative recycling of fibers from knitwear wastes or rejects: an ecological gesture that makes it possible to save resources through a simplified dynamic production process. Yarns that are the result of unconditional experimentation, with fibers obtained from natural polymers and activated carbon mixed with merino wool, to obtain exciting temperature-controlling performances: natural, technological and functional products that are perfect for sportswear. Plus, new polyamide fibers composed of biopolymers derived from renewable and ecologically sustainable vegetable sources.

Sensitive to the impact of large scale production on the environment, this awareness guides the manufacture of ethical and sustainable supplies, products and quality processes that respect the planet as well as the health of workers and consumers, without forgoing the objective of eliminating dangerous substances from the production chain.

The S/S 2020 presentation reflects an ideal of eco-sustainability that is careful not to distance itself from the sophisticated factor and a sense of uniqueness. Natural and essential yarns that are luxurious and, at times, subtly rough, where the deluxe soul is constantly emphasized by the hi-tech touch

Despite its’ low-key look, the most fashion-driven display and in this respect overshadowing the Spazio Ricerca was CustomEASY a collection of customized knit garments, many with clever and subtle shaping and styling details. The qualities and characteristics of the yarns highlighted with various dying and colouring techniques.

CustomEASY: luxury yarns, exclusive interpretations The event would not be complete without knitwear, one of the segments that best lends itself to experimenting with creativity. A spin-off of the Spazio Ricerca, CustomEASY is a knitwear capsule collection resulting from the synergy between the various players at Pitti Filati. Objective: to show that customisation treatments, once the preserve of denim and streetwear, can now also be used in the luxury segment. In the capsule collection, the top yarns from the fair exhibitors will be transformed into knitwear by the Knitclub factories and treated by INTEX, a leading company in the field of dyes and treatments. The end result? A special collection of 60 unique sweaters. “This experience also aims to offer the tools to facilitate customisation,” explains the curator of the collection, Angelo Figus. “Each garment has a jewelled plate, a sort of identity card that briefly describes who customised it, the company that produced the yarn and the knitwear factory that wove it. All indications that open the way for a true integration of the supply chain and infinite interpretations of the same yarn.” The project was curated by Angelo Figus, Nicola Miller and Maurizio Brocchetto, with set design by Alessandro Moradei.

Techno-Luxury: fine weaves with a futuristic soul Techno-Luxury, the installation/event by designer Angelo Figus, is coming to Spazio Ricerca, an experimental laboratory for Pitti Filati: a cathedral of colour, 15 metres high, which will open up vast creative scenarios, and offer a new way of understanding fashion, luxury and performance. The protagonist is the Italian excellence of the warp-knit, circular-knit stretch fabric, which finds its main exponents in the Carvico and Jersey Lomellina group. “The future is increasingly hybrid,” explains Figus. “In the yarn industry, we are experimenting with a tendency to combine noble fibres, such as cashmere, with polyamide, within the same garment. This work, which visitors can enter for a real chromo-experience, demonstrates the potential that can emerge from this encounter.” The installation includes 12 garments that represent the same number of hypotheses of blends of luxury yarns and polyamide, and that represent an invitation to collaborate, aimed at the best technical material companies. The layout of the space is by Alessandro Moradei, with the collaboration of Elena Mari and Nicola Miller.

Colour 

A season to enjoy and celebrate colour may be the best way to describe the season, or one where colour is at least key to yarn and so ultimately garment. There is bright element, but not true primary and may best be described simply as colourful; saturated and confident. There is too, a pastel story running though, but not ‘baby’, or particularly pretty, but delicate and fresh, subtle, timeless and natural sometimes, yet also modern and young.
Red – The most positive colour in the spectrum is reassuring and uplifting in difficult times to counter negativity and global confusion. Deep ‘Prada’ shades have echoes of the 90’s. Claret, Cherry, Poppy, Persimmon, Carmine, Softer Rosy hues and Coral.
Pink – Uplifting and positive, flattering and often comforting, crossing traditional gender and age barriers. Soft Blush, Shrimp, Rose and romantic dawn shades are surprisingly modern. Heather and Lilac tinted shades.
Orange – is upbeat and positive, bold vibrant shades are energetic and assertive, Jaffa, Kumquat and Koi. Flamingo and softer Peachy tones are easier, some having a definite 80’s vibe. The brightest shades convey a confident ‘techy’ modernity. Earthy Ginger shades translate well into autumn.
Yellow – Pick a shade and somebodies range will have it - its sunny disposition lifts the gloomiest spirits. Pale Buttermilk and Vanilla shades, Primrose, Lemon, Sunshine and Egg Yolk, to Saffron, Ochre and Mustard.
Green – Deeply symbolic, green suggests the sound politics and social conscience that plant it firmly in our current fashion spectrum. Olive, Bay and deep saturated Bronze and military shades are important grounding colours – often working as modern neutrals – gender free and easy to wear. Deep spruce and pine shades have a classic disciplined feel, evocative perhaps of school uniforms and late 90’s Prada which has come around again. Kelly, Emerald and Grass have a bold presence. Absinthe Lichen and Pea suggest mystery and can be simultaneously nostalgic and modern. Jade and Sage tones are softer. Lime adds a welcome carefree zing.
Blue – Midnight and Navy remain very much the new black. Mid-tone and greyed shades of steel, teal and Wedgewood are classic and easy. China Blue, Hydrangea and Sea Blue, the faded shades of Chambray and Forget Me Not. Ice and pale misty or smoky blues.
Plum – is rich and exciting, paler Violet shades, Lavender and Lilac. Greyed shades of Wisteria are modern and sophisticated.
Violet – remains popular as a highlight or confident boost in other palettes. Deep plum, purple and wine shades have a vintage feel, particularly in rich velvety and brushed textures, or slippery shiny finishes. Softer shades begin to merge with pink and are probably gaining importance.
Black – Is a modern perennial, a fashion and classic staple, the sound investment when paying out for quality to endure. Inky blue-black and sooty charcoal shades add depth and newness.
Charcoal – smart and chic leads the way into Grey; Concrete and Silver shades are modern and work well with ‘true’ colour. A very contemporary neutral. Flat toneless looks contrast with heathered, mouliné and melange mixes.
Brown – making that important emotional connection with nature, wood and the earth. Golden Toffee, Tan and leather shades are richly expensive, Camel and Fudge are classics rediscovered. Copper has hints of pink and the warmth of orange. Pale Sand, Stone and Mushroom shades are easy neutrals that merge effortlessly into greyed more urban shades.

Fibre

Organic matters is the big message of the season. Continuing the move of recent seasons spinners make special efforts to promote the global benefits and inform end customers with certification and verification of origin that meets and recognizes the international compliancing regulations that the contemporary customer is beginning to expect from a quality product. As the concept of luxury has been hijacked by big brands and popular culture to the point that it invariably means little more than expensive – and often unnecessarily so – the real luxury shifts back to quality, which is becoming understood as including the associated ethics of the product; limited environmental impact, animal welfare, social responsibility, sustainability, and waste management, etc.

Cotton - our favourite all-round fibre, but especially for Spring and Summer. Airspun versions add a modern lightness. Its increasing availability in organic qualities ensures its continued popularity. Mako Cotton brings its clean crispness and is present in most of the fashionable ranges, used 100% at high end and in blends for a more modest price point or to add just a hint of it’s cool papery qualities.

Linen - is firmly back in fashion, natural and unbleached looks immediately convey the rustic qualities we currently value. The cool matt and dry hand-feel adding notes of sophistication for clean minimal modernism.

Silk -is definitely back in favour, its traditional image satisfies a thirst for luxury, in enhanced in modern blends that provide body and recovery, stretch, drape and a sophisticated handle, it appears modern and contemporary. Its ability to take dye so successfully makes it a hit in a season such as this where colour is so particular and important.

Hemp - continues to gain popularity as alternative to linen in rustic looks, but is still largely not fully understood as a fibre by many buyers, more education and marketing is necessary to promote it. It can tick a number of boxes on the ethical and sustainable lists of desirable criteria.
Viscose - still a popular favourite for career and smart urban looks. It’s appearance as matt or shine, and supple behavior being very popular characteristics. The latest FSC certifications are enabling buyers to make informed environmentally sound decisions

Bamboo – less prevalent this season perhaps because other fibres have stepped- up to the Eco challenge. But still loved for its soft cool handle and favourable behavior for both draped and more formal looks and simple updated relaxed T shirt and tank styles.

Cashmere, super-finely spun or clever blends, with cotton, wool, silk, linen, viscose or stretch help modernize and move this naturally lightweight fibre through the seasons as a perennial luxury favourite. Trans-seasonal yarns and blends finding their way into many contemporary lifestyle-driven collections.

Polyamide/Nylon, present in many blends for volume, performance and lightness. The key ingredient in many modern blends – an alternative to Lycra for lower-power stretch or simply to add body and substance. Adds a sporty element used in higher content. Unadulterated versions have a bold modernist look.

Polyester – valued for adding lightness, durability, and performance qualities to all manner of fibre blends.

Polyester/Metallic – whilst not ubiquitous to every yarn collection, there is a not inconsiderable amount of shine and summer sparkle – perhaps the antidote to some of the current global and national concerns of the moment, with more sophisticated and subtler versions; frosted, shimmering and sparkly, alongside some fun full-on glittery and bling examples.

Coolmax - is the brand name for a series of polyester fabrics developed and marketed by Invista, as "moisture-wicking" and "breathable".
Yarn

Many spinners have risen to the challenge of short lead times and quicker turn- around by increasing the number of their stock service offers.

Twin themes combining trans-seasonal dressing with environmental concerns are the key drivers of many of the seasons new yarns.

Go anywhere blends that can transition through seasons and climates to suit contemporary lifestyles and aspirations were the hits of the show.

Millifili in the spirit of growing eco-consciousness doubled their spring/summer organic offer to eight yarns from four yarns last fall/winter.

Miroglio made their sustainable and FSC certified yarns the centre-piece of their stand display.

Consinee showing at Pitti Filati for the first time showed a cashmere pva blended yarn Lyal that when washed would dissolve the pva enabling superfine knits to be produced. An exciting idea with unanswered questions about its environmental credentials. They also labeled the content of their Ceylon quality as ‘ Belgian Linen’ , which is yet another example of how spinners are rising to the challenges of traceability issues and the prestige that can be gained.

Lanecardate – flagged-up their awareness of modern issues and concerns with their playful pun; ‘ Mindwoolness ’, boldly dominating their stand.

Filcompany – boast many yarns under their Bio – Organic – collection heading, 20 yarns classify as Eco/Bio/Sustainable and 20 yarns as regular. ‘Quake’ is Recycled Cotton, 50% Pre-customer and 50% Post-customer.

BE.MI.VA. – offered a whole range they marketed as ‘ Inter-seasonal ’ and included offers of Recycled Nylon and Biodegradable Nylon.

Pinori Filati – continue their successful ‘ Denim ’ range of recycled cotton and introduce ‘ Recy ’ a range of yarns utilizing polyester recycled from plastic bottles.

Fine gauges – 14g answers the need for new fine qualities without the premium prices of 16g, 18g and certainly 21g, whilst responding to the call for trans- seasonal yarns for lightweight ‘flexible garments that are key to modern trans- seasonal dressing needs.

Super-fine & Sheer effects – chiffon, organza, voile and all- manner of transparent looks are contemporary and sophisticated and very high fashion.

Simple rounded yarns for clean modern looks and good stitch definition. Perennial and classic looks updated for today.

Clean, Laundered, Mercerized and Calendared – Classic polished looks, pristine, with opaque dense/saturated colour, part of the modern classics story.

Classic - rounded profiles, simple appearances deceptively uncomplicated in modern blends, for clean simple knits or good stitch definition.

Texture - important, dry rustic looks – linen or hemp blends -and multi-texture multi-end yarns add richness and interest.

Tape yarns - Flat tapes, often clean and simple laundered looks, and haberdasher influences. Organza-types have a luxury feminine glamour.

Boucle/Neps/Snarls and Gimps – super-fine versions look newest, with toweling and mini-toweling/Babygro looks having a modern yet retro-sporty appeal.

Pile and Fleece – summers versions of the popular winter pile and teddy fabrics – offer sporty fleece variants and toweling type textures

Matt & Shine - twists continue popularity. Tone on tone effects add texture interest and subtle colour nuances.

Shiny/Glossy/Polished – modern sophistication, dressed-up and formal, satin, and drape qualities provided by viscose, silk or bamboo.

Viscose - classic shiny versions have an updated 80’s appeal, strong and confident. Matt versions are super sophisticated and luxe again.

Clean & Dry / Smooth & Dry – simple matt looks are modern and minimal.

Modern & Contemporary – have to tick all the boxes; performance appeal with clever blends, intelligent, practical responsible/sustainable/Eco.

Distressed/Washed/Aged – frayed and worn looks, the look of much loved and old favourites, retro and vintage workwear influences.

Sparkle/Shimmer/Frosted/Crystalized/Shimmer/Lustre/Bling – how far do you want to go. Sparkle is no longer after six, summer sparkle is young and upbeat. Two colour metallics and hologram effects are new and fun.

Sequins and Pailettes – some of the smallest versions ever for super-sophisticated looks. Clear or hologram are newest.

Spray-dye effects - are getting more subtle, resembling faded and distressed looks.

Mélange and Heather effects – subtle but large scale effects are new. Soft indistinct mélanges.

Vestigial colour. – part of the washed and worn/faded story and overlaps into the mélange story too, uneven and subtle tie-dye effects

Drape - important for contemporary and more formal or feminine looks, viscose and rayon, silk, and bamboo for cool-handle versions.

Paper – dry papery textures as typified by Mako Cotton but also achieved in clever blends and mixes. Clean and crisp, or soft and pulpy.

Raffia – another dry and papery texture that fits well into sophisticated modern rustic looks.

Tape and Ladder Structures – new super-fine versions looked new and modern, chunky versions are lighter and suit light and sheer open-structured summer knits.

Cage yarns/Tubular & Encased – summers version create delicate veiled colour effects and mix matt and shine.

Jaspe, Wrapped & Twist effects – for strong retro-modern looks, black binding versions with clear colour have an exciting distinctly 80’s graphic vibe. White binding versions add a chalky freshness.

Spring is always an uplifting time for colour, and nobody does colour quite like the Italians: matching a feeling for the newness and directions in the ether with their confident yet commercial fashion flair.

Colour ranges this season from barely-there pastels and washed vestigial colour to deep saturated and vibrant exotic shades. There is a strong feel for pretty and feminine colours, but many of the prettiest colours are also intended be taken up for menswear too. Similarly darker somber colours once considered more menswear appropriate now segue into womenswear via strong urban styling, utility influences and where for many markets the gender divide is blurring and becoming irrelevant,

The Five main colour stories promoted in the Spazio Ricerca can be described as:

1. Cool pastels, not baby or sugary, but clean diluted colour, looking delicate yet somehow confident and modern

2. Soft flowers – pretty shades that could evoke retro styling or full-blown romantic blooms.

3. Earthy mid-tones evoking deserts, rocks and something of tropical fruits and ripening colour blushes.

4. Hot vs Cold – there’s something decidedly 80’s about this group of bold saturated mid-tones contrast with synthetic sunny pastels, perhaps a bit of Memphis/Ettore Sotsass ironic fun or cartoon capers.

5. Rich darks – bold, dramatic and sophisticated, but they may need some clever handling to make them work well - better as strong accents and definition rather than used as a complete group.

A truer picture of the seasons important colour directions can best be gleaned by viewing the colours against those palettes in the spinners actual ranges.

Workwear and utility is still a strong fashion element with people appreciating enduring values, longevity and authenticity - Consequently workwear blues and indigo shades remain popular and viable choices.

Fibre

Hemp continues to gain popularity as alternative to linen in rustic looks, but is still largely not understood as a fibre by many buyers, let alone by end customers, so more education and marketing is necessary to promote it.

Linen though, is very definitely at centre of most of the trend stories, offering the dry rustic qualities we currently value, as well as the cool matt sophistication for clean minimal modernism.

Cleanest of all the fibres is Mako Cotton, present in most of the fashionable ranges, used 100% at high end and in blends for a more modest price point or to add just a hint of it’s cool papery cleanliness.

Cotton as ever is core for Spring Summer 17, updated in airspun versions adding a modern lightness, it qualities enhanced in modern blends and celebrated in it’s dominant appearance.

Silk retains its luxury image, but extends it’s reach; enhanced in modern blends that provide body and recovery, stretch, drape and a sophisticated handle.

Viscose - still the popular favourite for career and smart urban looks,

Cashmere, super-finely spun or clever blends help move this naturally lightweight fibre through the seasons as a perennial luxury favourite.

Bamboo – the soft cool handle makes it a popular choice for draped and more formal styled garments and simple updated relaxed T shirt and tank styles.

Polyamide, present in many blends for volume, performance and extends more precious fibres. It’s image definitely moved on and upwards as the ingredient that helps make blends light and modern.

Nylon – an alternative to Lycra for lower-power stretch or simply to add body and substance. Adds a sporty element used in higher content.

Polyester/Metallic – made a somewhat surprising appearance in many ranges, generally in more sophisticated and subtler versions, frosted, shimmering and sparkly rather than full-on glittery or bling.

Yarn

Retailers are slowly waking up to the idea of selling the garments that people want to wear at the time that they want to wear them, rather than continue with the artificially early and inappropriate seasonal timetables that retail had become lumbered with. Many spinners are responding similarly – at least for Spring/Summer and apparently placing the accent on trans-seasonal yarns. Go anywhere blends that can transition through seasons and climates to suit contemporary lifestyles and aspirations. Perhaps we are about to start to see the beginning of ‘real seasons’.

Newer fine gauges – 14g answers the need for new fine qualities without the premium prices of 16g, 18g and certainly 21g. Also responds to the need for trans-seasonal yarns. Many qualities offered in this previously overlooked gauge which looks new and responds to some of the needs of the season.

Super-fine & Sheer effects – chiffon, organza, voile and all- manner of transparent looks – contemporary and sophisticated and high fashion.

Re-conception – one of the buzzwords of the show, interpreted as rediscovery and re-evaluating, so whilst total newness is rarely possible or necessarily desirable, markets survives by re-invention; by studying what is happening in society and responding accordingly with modifications and appropriate updates in the nature of what is by definition; true fashion.

Simple rounded yarns for clean modern looks and good stitch definition. Perennial and classic looks updated for today.

Clean, Laundered, Mercerized and Calendared – Classic polished looks, pristine, with opaque dense/saturated colour, part of the modern classics story.

Classic - rounded profiles, Flat tapes, haberdasher influences, simple appearances/deceptively uncomplicated.

Texture -  important, dry rustic looks, and multi-texture multi-end yarns add richness and interest.

Boucle/Neps/Snarls and Gimps – super-fine versions look newest, with toweling and mini-toweling/Babygro looks having a modern yet retro-sporty appeal.

Pile and Fleece – summers versions of the popular winter pile and teddy fabrics – offer sporty fleece variants and toweling type textures

Matt & Shine - twists continue popularity. Tone on tone effects and subtle twists.

Viscose - classic shiny versions loose their older

Clean & Dry / Smooth & Dry – flat matt looks, modern and possibly minimal.

Modern & Contemporary – performance appeal with clever blends, intelligent, practical responsible/sustainable/Eco.

Distressed/Washed/Aged – frayed and worn looks, the look of much loved and old favourites, retro and vintage workwear influences.

Shiny/Glossy/Polished – modern sophistication, dressed-up and formal, satin, and drape qualities.

Sparkle/Shimmer/Frosted/Crystalized/Shimmer/Lustre – delicate and subtle is what makes these yarns new and appropriate.

Sequins and Pailettes – some of the smallest versions ever for super-sophisticated looks – high end only!

Spray-dye effects - are getting more subtle, resembling faded and distressed looks.

Mélange and Heather effects – subtle but large scale effects are new. Soft indistinct mélanges.

Washed & Worn, Single Dye effects – faded and worn looking.

Vestigial colour. – part of the washed and worn/faded story and overlaps into the mélange story too, uneven and subtle tie-dye effects

Drape - important for contemporary and more formal or feminine looks, viscose and rayon, silk, and bamboo for cool-handle versions.

Rubbery and Gummy – coated and glazed finishes for a strong contemporary edge, some versions had a soapy drapey finish.

Paper – dry papery textures as typified by Mako Cotton but also achieved in clever blends and mixes. Clean and crisp, or soft and pulpy.

Raffia – another dry and papery texture that fits well into sophisticated modern rustic looks.

Tape and Ladder Structures – new super-fine versions looked new and modern, chunky versions are lighter and suit open-structured summer knits.

Cage yarns/Tubular & Encased – summers version create delicate veiled colour effects and mix matt and shine.

Jaspe, Wrapped & Twist effects – for strong retro-modern looks, black binding versions with clear colour have an exciting distinctly 80’s graphic vibe.

Structure and Pattern

Milano & Half Milano for dense stable formalized fabrics.

Full-needle rib structures and ‘solid’ flat fabrics.

External seems, frayed and raw seems

Overprinted patterns and motifs

Net, mesh and sporty open Aertex-type fabrics

Drop-stitch, Ladder and openwork stitches.

All-over cable patterns as sophisticated textures

Seeded and decorative ribs

Double-faced fabrics and bonded surfaces

Bonded and laminated patches and decorations

Multi-technique – bonding on top of prints or embroidery, embroidery on top of prints, etc.

Engineered cables

Organic and irregular textured stitches

Large scale lace patterns and motifs

Lingerie inspired pointelle, mini-lace and broidery anglais effects.

Sophisticated jacquards imitate woven brocades

Funky crochet patterns

Crochet & knit combinations

Textural, abstract, organic & ‘non-pattern’ stitches

Fully fashioned and shaping features

Two-colour tuck patterns and mock-woven looks

Plated and double face effects

Knit & woven combinations

Washed, faded & bleached, Vestigial colour – tie-dye and dip-dye effects

Extra Notes

KNITCLUB & THE BEST KNITTING MILLS

KnitClub is Pitti Filati area that showcases quality knitting mills (Central Pavilion – Lower Floor). A consolidated selection of companies able to interpret the technical and creative needs of the visitors to the fair. With the aim of achieving an even deeper integration of the production chain, this section represents a unique opportunity for debate and dialogue between knitwear manufacturers and buyers, designers, and the style bureaus of the world’s best fashion brands attending Pitti Filati.

Here are the names at this edition:

ALDA SANTINI, BLUPURO MAGLIERIE, DAIICHI KNIT, ELSAMANDA, FEEL BLUE, HANDKNITS, MAGLIERIA GEMMA, MAGLIFICIO CAPELLI, MAGLIFICIO GENTE DI MARE, MAGLIFICIO PISANI, MAGLIFICIO PISTILLO, MAGLIFICIO VENEZIA, MAISON NEW CLUB, MARUSHO KNIT FACTORY, PAZZI DA FILARE, TEODORI.

FASHION IS AT WORK

AT PITTI FILATI!

The Fashion at Work section is an important reference point for its many technical aspects. Italian and foreign exhibitors dedicated to style consulting, stitch and prototype development, printing on knits, knitting machinery, buttons and notions, accessories and trimmings, embroideries and appliqués, dyeing and finishing, trend carnets and style bureaus, color-coding systems, and software for designing and manufacturing. Here we go with the brands at this edition (Central Pavilion – Lower Floor): ARTEVIVA - HAND WOVEN, CARVICO, CIRCLELINE DESIGN, ELASTIFICIO TOSCANO, FASHION ROOM, FIONA COLQUHOUN DESIGN, FORZA GIOVANE, INTEX, JERSEY LOMELLINA, KIT SERVICE, MAGLIA PROJECT, MANUSA, MIELE ITALIA, MODA FUTURIBILE, MODE...INFORMATION, PAFA, PASHMA, PASSAMANI, SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA, STAMPERIA MARRA, THE COLLECTION LONDON.