Pitti Filati 80 january 2017 Reportspring/summer 2018

Introduction
OverviewTrendsColourFibreYarnStructure and Pattern
coming next . . .
Pitti Filati 80: Florence, Italy
january 2017
spring/summer 2018

Report: Noel Chapman

Introduction

‘Great looking and quality expressed in the collections, the exhibition dedicated to the top of the international yarn ends launching a positive message for the whole sector’

So reads the official Pitti Filati publicity for its 80th show for Spring/Summer, describing itself as

‘The international event for the knitting yarn industry. A research laboratory but also Observatory for new global lifestyle trends, Pitti Filati presents excellence in yarns to its audience on an international scale, buyers from around the world and designers of the most important names in fashion who come to Florence in looking for ideas and inspiration’

The 80th edition of Pitti Filati took place in an atmosphere of great excitement in the stands at the Fortezza da Basso, with buyers from all over the world committed to see what's new, research and new trends expressed in the collections of the best spinning, and to take samples for next season’.

Once again the Spazio Ricerca was revised and presented trends under the umbrella theme ‘The Passenger’ - edited by fashion designer Angelo Figus and knitwear expert Nicola Miller, and was intended to:

‘. . . . immerse visitors in a world input and creative ideas related to theme of travel and travelers’.

It was exciting to see a number of developments in areas of recycling and sustainability – See particularly the section of this report: Yarns

Overview

In the midst of difficult and uncertain times a mood of caution prevails; there was little evidence of real investment in innovation, with spinners focusing on refinement and the subtler developments of perfecting and re-affirming the trends of recent seasons. That resulted in a consistent message of quality, performance and wearability that can be positively interpreted as one of reassurance and comforting familiarity to end-customers. There was a decided turn against novelty for the sake of novelty, with something of a classic element returning – although technology and performance were more often than not to be found somewhere in the mix - discrete or otherwise. Which is not to say that within this sound commercially driven focus there wasn’t excitement and many, many beautiful, stylishand highly desirable yarns.

在景氣混沌不明的年代,近年來紡紗業者並未有顯著的投資,反而以品質功能和耐用性直接對消費者作訴求.此一訴求 也讓紗線原料不再是為花式而花式反而是應用了更多經典原素 . 雖然不如以往展示隨處可見新的技術和工藝的結合,但也不代表沒有因看不到許多漂亮另人心動的紗線而減弱了商業焦點

Taking this positive and clever attitude is one of the strengths that enables Pitti Filati to remain a key event in the knitwear and fashion calendar. Despite reports of smaller design and sales teams actually travellingthe attendance numbers increased as well as maintained the faithful followers of previous seasons.

‘From Pitti Filati came a definitely positive message to the international spinning - says Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine - in a complex moment for the sector, which was affected by the difficulties and uncertainties of the world scenarios, in Florence the exhibition saw three intense days of activities. With very positive feedback on the new collections, on finding that the Italian and foreign spinning of excellence presented to a highly qualified audience of designers, design offices and industry. An audience of buyers who have registered an increase, both on the foreign front and on the Italian: and pleased to say that it is a growth now underway for three editions. "

The final figures showed a total of more than 4,350 buyers, up + 2.5% from a year ago;Growth in both the Italian front (+ 3.5%), and the numbers of international buyers (+ 1%), which greatly exceeded the 1800 attendances.

Growing numbers for almost all foreign markets: the best performances are those of buyers from Germany (+ 6%), France (+ 8.5%), Japan (+ 23%), Russia (return to sustained rates of Russian buyers to + 70%);confirm their attendance levels of buyers from the UK, USA, China, Hong Kong and Turkey;down however the numbers from Spain and the Netherlands

In the ranking of the top 15 foreign reference countries is confirmed in the lead the United Kingdom (271 buyers), followed by Germany (243), France (1192), United States (109), Spain (90), Turkey (86), Japan (84), Switzerland (82), Russia (76), Netherlands (69), Sweden (41), China (35), Denmark (31), Belgium (30) and Hong Kong (24)’

Trends

Picking up on the interest and desire that prevailstoday for exciting travel and the discovery of our planet, the umbrella theme of the Spazio Ricerca

本屆主題以令人興奮的旅行和探索我们的地球作銜接 為本此展覽整個架構

‘The Pitti Filati Spazio Ricerca of 80 is dedicated to travel and to travelers'. The Passengerexplores traveling as a dimension of great freedom: each trip is a different person looking for something unique, with a different suitcase to get the best out of the experience and the destination. There is a trip for every personality and every Possibility. A trip for every dream that is just waiting to be discovered and experienced. The Passenger tells the story of 9 journeys - The Walk,The Treat,The Anywhere,The Rich,The Game,The Swap,The Tent,The Jump and The Wheels - and conveys the versatility our wardrobe needs to deal with changes in climate and environment’.

在此架構下 共分為9 個個主題: The Walk(步行) The Treat(療瘉) The Anywhere(隨興所至) The Rich(豐富之旅) The Game(運動) The Swap(心情替換) The Tent(野營) The Jump(自由自在)

The Wheels(勇往直前)

‘It evolves by definition Spazio Ricerca at Pitti Filati, Salon creativity laboratory and experimental observatory where trends for the coming seasons are analyzed and launched. The Passenger is the theme of this edition and is dedicated to the trip and all travelers.

The journey understood as time to devote to ourselves and to others, to learn about and get to know, like freedom to be and do, beyond the boundaries and roles of the newspaper. With the idea that there is a trip for each person and need, just waiting to be discovered and experienced. An exhibition and unique research of its kind, under the artistic direction of fashion designer Angelo Figus and knitwear expert Nicola Miller, and layout by Alessandro Moradei’.

Themes were laid out with each having its write-up and characteristic elements defined and realized in swatches mounted in giant travelling trunks and an outfit on a mannequin and set against an evocative video and lively retro soundtrack.

‘The 2018Spring/Summer season is dedicated to travel and all travelers. Good weather awakens a new desire to travel and discover places, people and things. Travel not as a work necessary but time to devote to ourselves and others to get to know each other and ourselves. Travel is a dimension of great freedom. Freedom to be and to do beyond the boundaries and roles of everyday life to discover new places and new people, life, places and primary needs. Each trip is a different person looking for something unique. Each trip is a suitcase to ponder and carefully prepare to get the best out of the experience and the definition. There is trip for every personality and every possibility. A trip for every dream that is just waiting to be discovered and experienced’.

THE PASSION(激情), the passion for the extreme becomes rebellion. The theme is inspired by the Japan of the Bosozoku. A noisy and rumbling theme that combines Japanese tradition with Punk.激情成為極端便是叛逆, 此靈感來自日本暴走族文化. 喧囂 吵雜的龐客主題結合日本的傳統原素

THE JUMP(自由自在), in this theme, the sense of freedom and getting away from it all becomes extreme, it is the trip that takes you to the most inspiring palces on the planet to engage in extreme sports is loaded with adrenalin.
自由自在 遠離壓力. 旅行到地球上最另人鼓舞的地方, 帶著滿身的腎上腺素從事極限運動!!

THE GAME(運動), is the trip heading for sports and activities with a traditional old-school air.從事老派又傳統的休閒運動

THE SWAP(心情替換), the home-exchange spirit is revolutionizing both the way of experiencing your destination and the concept of the trip itself. Leave home tofind home 換房旅遊的精神為旅行本身的概念和旅地的體驗帶來雙向的變化 讓家找到家的感覺

THE TENT(野營), a wild and free spirit in contact with nature. Camping? Yes, and completely, but with all the comforts of a temporary style home that is very refined, wild and chic.狂野又自由的精神和大自然息息相關, 搭棚為營如何?
完全同意!! 優雅 狂野和可愛 但又充滿現代家的舒適

THE RICH(豐富之旅), this theme’s traveler knows his destination very well, the places that offer the utmost in luxury. For the lucky few or for once in a lifetime.此主題是旅人對旅遊目的地非常清楚, 目的地所在提供極其奢華的感受
非一般常人所能享受到.

THE ANYWHERE(隨興所至), doesn’t know his destination until the last moment, the low-cost traveler doesn’t plan anything except being prepared for everything.直到最後一刻才決定旅遊地點, 對於軟曩羞澀的旅人而言, 除了必須的事前準備事情外, 不會作預先規劃

THE TREAT(療瘉), the journey seeking physical wellness and purification in a distant, exotic land. It is an escape from our time and reality.此旅程是在風景迷人的遠方島嶼, 尋求身心健康和心靈淨化, 遠離一切世俗塵囂

THE WALK(步行), the journey to places of faith and mysticism, a journey to loose and then find oneself again. Pilgrim 2.0 travels light with a meager backpack.此旅程走訪信仰和探訪神秘主義 也是放鬆尋找自我之旅
朝聖2.0 是心靈貧瘠背包客的光明燈

Garments definitely had more of a fashion look, with many experiments with laser-cutting, bonding and welded construction. But criticisms were voiced that ‘true knitwear’ was somewhat sidelined to the dramatic visual effects of foiling and coating techniques. The specific performance values designed into the yarns and that result from enormous technological developments are frequently disguised and overshadowed. These treatments generally result in surfaces with unfriendly handfeel and corrupted behaviours which could be seen as counter-productive to the primary aims of the show itself to promote the yarns from some of the world’s best and most sophisticated spinners.

Colour

The 9 colour palettes that link to the 9 PASSENGER themes, do not fully convey or represent the most inspirational and directional colours developed and presented by the best of the spinners at Pitti Filati. In response this report will present an overall analysis of colour for S/S 2018 as seen across all the presentations and ranges.

Greyed Pastels - a soft but not exclusively feminine-targeted group of tinted pastels with an aged or greyed look, often a little ambiguous between one colour and another. Soft buttery yellow, petal, plaster and make-up shades of pink that overlap into 80’s-looking peachy shades. Misty lavender and lilac shades, cloudy blue and blue-grey. Sage and grey-green colours, putty and clay tones.

Dark Shadows – a sophisticated and sometimes dramatic range that includes graphite grey, new-looking brown shades, plum and purple-y tones. Rich olive and tobacco tones, burgundy and wine shades. Teal and petrel blue, airforce blue and inky navy or blue-black.

Bright Summer - A group of good saturated if not always truly ‘bright’ colours. Vibrant chlorophyll and deeper jungle green shades. Ochre, mustard and earthy yellow tones. Persimmon, watermelon and rich fruity pink shades. Coral and earthy chilli red tones. Cobalt and ultramarine blue, Forget-me-Not and crisp clean blues. Bright minty green and Eau de Nil. Mandarin and upbeat Jaffa orange shades.

Neutral Nature – Sand, Raffia, Straw and Cane shades. Driftwood and grey-brown, mushroom or taupe colours. Urban grey shades; concrete or metallic, and natures greys that evoke clouds and dusk and plumage. Colours to use on their own as ‘true colours’ and as a foil and counterbalance to more ‘colourful colours’. White, summers favourite colour in natural milky and unbleached shades, stronger synthetic or sporty bright whites.

Fibre

Linen, is very definitely at the centre of most of the trend stories, for the dry rustic looks, some of the papery qualities on-trend, and the cool matt cleanness that is part of summers menu.

Cleanest of all the fibres is Mako Cotton, present in most of the fashionable ranges, used 100% at high end and in blends for a more modest price point or to add just a hint of it’s cool papery cleanliness.

Cotton as ever is core for Spring Summer 18, updated in airspun versions adding a modern lightness, its qualities enhanced in modern blends and celebrated in new corded developments.

Silk retains its luxury image, but extends its reach; enhanced in modern blends that provide body and recovery, stretch, drape and a sophisticated handle. Glossy polished finishes or nubby,dry and rustic looks.

Hemp gains popularity as alternative to linen in rustic looks, but is not as heavily promoted as in previous seasons.

The understanding and appreciation of the values of synthetic fibres and their place not only in yarns but in the fibres and yearns in our modern wardrobes is becoming universally better understood – if not yet fully, by the end-customer, certainly by designers and manufacturers.

Viscose - still the popular favourite for career and smart urban looks. The shiny glossy versions regain popularity used throughout or in twists and blends to add highlights and life to mixes. Valued for it qualities of drape and fluidity or adding contrast in matt & shine mixes with other fibres and yarns.

Cashmere, super-finely spun or clever blends help move this naturally lightweight fibre through the seasons as a perennial luxury favourite.

Bamboo – the soft cool handle makes it a popular choice for draped and more formal styled garments and simple updated relaxed layers.

Polyamide, present in many blends for volume, performance and extends more precious fibres. Its image has definitely moved on and upwards as the ingredient that helps make blends light and modern for recovery and performance.

Nylon – an alternative to Lycra for lower-power stretch or simply to add body and substance. Adds a sporty element and enhances performance.

Polyester/Metallic – a key yarn element for the season in many ranges.Clear polyester and tone-on-tone metallic for sophisticated and subtler versions, frosted, shimmering and sparkly, or full-on glittery fun and bling.

Yarn

A number of spinners this season decided to raise the profile of some of the environmental and sustainable approaches they are taking – to be fair many of them have been taking these steps for a number of seasons, but their promotion of them has until now been more secondary.

Consorzoo Italiano Implementazione Detox – CID – The Italian Detox Improvement Consortium was the first and only organization in the world, created in response to a challenge set by Greenpeace to remove substances harmful to both humans and to the environment, and to try to make an eco-friendly fashion possible. Ilaria is just one of the Italian companies that is working with.

Filpuccihas also published its environmental care plan;Chemical Management 4 Sustainability.

Elsewhere at Pitti Filati Pinori Filati promoted their latest and extended range of recycled cotton ‘DENIM’ yarns to include tape yarns, twists with Silk, with Linen and with Polyester – the polyester being recycled from plastic bottles, the denim element uses old jeans and denim clothing, the buttons and zips are removed then the fabric is washed and shredded back to fibre, which does not need re-dying but re-uses the original colour when spun into yarn. Not re-dying is in itself is a massive water saving; it takes 100 litres of water and 9kw of electricity to dye just 1kg of cotton.

Fine Gauge – 14g and Super-fine gauge yarns are key to the season – enabling sophisticated fine garments for layering and flexible climate-appropriate dressing.

Dry-look & Dry-feel – one of the most important fashion messages of the season - it’s been brewing for a while now - these qualities being achieved most successfully with linen, with cotton, particularly with long-staple and Pima-types and often most expensively with Mako Cotton. Alternative forms of Dry-look are rustic, coarse and handspun looking.

Summer Tweed – Chanel looks –Many, many variants of this very important summer trend that carries over from the winter tweed trends. Achieved with nepped and slub yarns, fibre mixes and blends, with twists and multi-ended yarns, providing texture and colour mixes.

Summer Tweed – Chanel looks –Many, many variants of this very important summer trend that carries over from the winter tweed trends. Achieved with nepped and slub yarns, fibre mixes and blends, with twists and multi-ended yarns, providing texture and colour mixes.

Boucle, Mini & Micro Bouclé, Neps, Snarls and Gimps – it’s so much about texture. Super-fine versions are newest, like Babygro or retro-sports looks.

Corded and Rounded effects – newest versions are super-light and springy.

Ladder and Eyelash yarns – frayed, ripped and worn effects, uneven or wrapped and bound effects.

Pile and Fleece – a summer sport look often utilizing hybrids of eyelash and boucle yarns, extreme versions are shaggy and unkempt.

Suede and Leather -

Shine, Metallic, Lame - frosted, shimmering and sparkly, or full-on glittery fun and bling.

Washed & Faded –single dyed effects

Structure and Pattern

Echoing the eschewing of novelty mentioned in the Yarn section of this report, there was a noticeable apparent simplicity in many of the stitches and patterns promoted. Although in actuality a number of knitted fabrics presented echoed in appearance simple woven fabrics, they were achieved with super-clever double jacquard techniques, Shima or automatic machine-knitted.

Milano & Half Milano for dense stable formalized fabrics.

Full-needle rib strictures and ‘solid’ flat fabrics.

External Seams, Bonded and welded seams.

Multiple techniques; Jacquards with Print, Lace with print, Textures with Embroidery, Jacquards with Embroidery or applique. Laser with Print, etc. Bonded and laminated mixes.

Lace, Net & Mesh, Sporty open Aertex-type fabrics.

Drop-stitch irregularities, Ladder and open structures.

Organic, Racked and rippled textures.

Engineered cables.

Large-scale abstract patterns – furnishing-scale motifs and modern placements or ‘incomplete’ patterns.

Sophisticated Jacquards and Double-jacquards, evoking woven and brocade looks.

Fully-Fashioned and shaping features make the most of clean and crisp yarns.

Two-colour tuck patterns, evoke 1970’s hand framed looks.

Plated and super-fine double-face effects.

Knit and woven combinations.

Mixed gauges, contrast of trims or mixed gauge twinsets.

Simple mixes of Knit and Purl, right/reverse sides.

Lingerie looks in mini-lace and damask effects.

Organic and Abstract texture-rich Jacquards.

Crazy Yarn-mix patterns for texture.

coming next . . .

SpinExpo Shanghai – spring/summer 18– 28 February 01, 02 March

Pitti Filati 81 Florence – autumn/winter 18 – 28, 29, 30 June

SpinExpo Paris - Preview- 03, 04, 05 July

SpinExpo – New York –Preview– 18, 19, 20 July

SpinExpo – Shanghai - autumn/winter 18– 29, 30, 31 August

Pitti Filati 82 Florence –spring/summer 19– 24, 25, 26 January